By Chef Billy Genterola, FMP
The Philippines is renowned for its diverse and vibrant culinary landscape, with each region boasting unique dishes that reflect the local culture and traditions. Among these regional treasures is the beloved Kinalas, a dish that epitomizes the rich flavors and culinary heritage of Naga City in the Bicol region, southern part of the Philippines.
Kinalas is more than just a noodle dish; it is a gastronomical journey that has captivated the hearts and palates of food enthusiasts worldwide. Originating from the bustling city of Naga in Camarines Sur, this hearty dish has woven itself into the fabric of local food lore for decades. Historically, its roots can be traced back to the early 20th century when Kinalas began its life as street fare. It was initially peddled as a simple, inexpensive breakfast item, commonly enjoyed by the working-class community for its nourishing and satiating attributes.
The dish’s foundation lies in its main components: succulent beef or pork head meat, fresh noodles, an aromatic and flavorful stock, and a signature house-made thick sauce. The preparation of the meat is a labor of love; the pork or beef head is meticulously simmered for several hours until the meat reaches peak tenderness, after which it is shredded or finely sliced. Simultaneously, the stock is crafted by patiently simmering the head bones alongside a medley of aromatic vegetables and a bouquet of spices, which may include everything from bay leaves to peppercorns, ensuring a broth imbued with deep flavors.
Next, the fresh noodles, known locally as Miki or Pancit, are blanched to perfect al dente texture in this savory broth, ensuring they soak up its essence. These noodles are then lovingly combined with the prepared meat, but it’s the exceptional sauce that truly defines the dish. The making of this thick, umami-laden sauce is an art in itself. It begins with a roux a mixture of flour and fat cooked together and used to thicken sauces to provide body, followed by enriching the stock with soy sauce, the creamy texture of pig’s brain, the pungent punch of garlic, and the delicate, salty crush of dried shrimp. Each component interacts on the culinary stage to infuse the noodles and meat as its canvas. To finish, the dish is often garnished with a variety of toppings such as chopped green onions, fried garlic bits, and sometimes a boiled egg or a sprinkle of chicharron (crispy pork skin) for an added textural contrast. Kinalas is typically enjoyed with a side of piquant chili peppers and a splash of calamansi – a small, tart citrus fruit similar to a lime – to balance the rich flavors.
While the traditional Kinalas recipe remains a steadfast favorite among locals, over time the dish has naturally evolved, as Nagueños put their own twist on the classic. From shifts in the type of noodles used to variations in toppings and seasonings, Kinalas demonstrates a delightful flexibility. In some parts of the Philippines, you may also find versions that incorporate chicken or seafood, showcasing regional tastes and ingredient availability.
This continuous evolution of Kinalas signifies its power to unite people across different walks of life through a shared love of food. It reflects not only the creativity and adaptability inherent in Filipino cuisine but also the communal spirit that is central to Bicolano culture.
The enduring appeal of Kinalas is further evidenced by its presence at various food festivals and competitions, where it stands as a point of pride for the Nagueños. This noodle dish, with its humble beginnings and complex blend of flavors, embodies the sense of community and warmth that is so characteristic of Filipino hospitality. As Kinalas continues to be served in homes and local eateries throughout the Philippines, it carries with it the story of Naga City’s rich culinary tradition and its capacity to bring joy and comfort to those it feeds.
NAGA ‘Yon!
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